My xTool's first project: DIY Valentine's Day cards

I cut this card on my xTool M1 Ultra using files designed by Tobias Kaulich on DesignFind. Photo by Monica Jones

Valentine’s Day is coming, which gave me a reason to use my new xTool M1 Ultra on my first real project — two cards for my kids.

I expect the xTool to replace my Cameo 4, which is a great machine but not as versatile. If it’s going to do that, it needs to cut cardstock and specialty materials — in this case, glitter foam.

I modified the original design to use stickers from my stash because I get a dopamine rush whenever I can use supplies I have on hand.

The xTool did a great job cutting the cardstock and the gold glitter foam, then choked a bit on the red glitter foam, leaving jagged edges. It was irrelevant for this project since the edges are hidden behind the cardstock. I don’t know what the problem was, but since this is my first project, I’ll pin the blame on my own incompetence for now.

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3D printing is a spectator sport

This illuminated iron flask sits patiently in our gaming room, waiting for some low-wisdom derp to throw it. Photo by Monica Jones

See what I did there? The headline is funny because in Baldur’s Gate 3, when you throw the iron flask, a spectator breaks free to show you what chaotic neutral is all about.

Oh shut up. I’m hilarious.

Anyway, Devon 3D-printed this iron flask, designed by Mark Pedersen, as a prop for our gaming room. He modified the original design to make the bottom detachable and added electronics for just a touch of menace.

Also, we know spectators are lawful neutral. It was just a stupid joke.

Supplies

For the body: Protopasta Stainless Steel Filled PLA 3D Printer Filament
For the eyes and mouth: Clear red SUNLU 3D Printer Filament
Sandpaper in multiple grits

Note: Devon sanded the body using 400-, 800-, 1000-, 2000- and 3000-grit sandpaper, in that order, to achieve a realistic metallic finish.

Instructions for electronics

The seed pixels (the LEDs) have three wires. The marked one is for voltage, which gets soldered to the 5v hole on the ESP. The next one is for signal. I soldered that to D4. The final wire is for ground, and that one gets soldered to G.

Cut as much wire as you need for your project. We recommend using no more than 30 LEDs on an ESP board.

Next, install WLED on the board. You’ll need to install the drivers first. Then plug in WLED and follow their setup instructions. Your config should look something like this.

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An elegant weapon for a more civilized age

Feeling kinda cute. Might slaughter all the younglings. IDK. This 3D-printed wall mount with programmable LEDs holds one of our lightsabers. Photo by Monica Jones

During our trip to Disneyland last year, Devon and I made custom lightsabers at Savi’s Workshop. Devon also bought a replica of Rey’s weapon, and I bought him a Darksaber for Father’s Day.

This is the way to a lot of lightsabers.

Don’t look at us like that. Normal people have lightsaber collections, and there’s nothing weird to see here.

A collection without a way to display it is just vendor trash, so Devon 3D printed wall mounts for our budding Jedi-Sith armory.

Supplies

Free STL files
Silk Silver PLA
Protopasta Steel Filled PLA
Hatchbox Black PLA
Overture clear PETG
Diffusion film
Right angle USB-C cable, 10 ft
Threaded inserts (M2 for grate, M3 for clip)
Socket-cap screws (M2 for grate, M3 for clip)
Heat-set insert tips
Soldering iron Make sure it's one compatible with the tips you get
Solder
ESP 8266 board, USB-C
Seed LEDs Amazon, AliExpress (We used the ones from AliExpress)
Wet or dry sandpaper, 150, 220, 400, 800, 1500, 3000 grit
Double-sided mounting tape
Pixel String Light
WiFi Development Board

Instructions

The seed pixels (the LEDs) have three wires. The marked one is for voltage, which gets soldered to the 5v hole on the ESP. The next one is for signal. I soldered that to D4. The final wire is for ground, and that one gets soldered to G.

Cut as much wire as you need for your project. We recommend using no more than 30 LEDs on an ESP board.

Next, install WLED on the board. You’ll need to install the drivers first. Then plug in WLED and follow their setup instructions. Your config should look something like this.

Sand the grate, moving up from 150 to 3000 grit, to get a realistic metallic shine.

Use thin strips of mounting tape to stick the LEDs inside and to hold the ESP on the back. Position it so the right-angle USB cable can seat reasonably.

Use a soldering iron to sink in the threads, and attach the clip to the front side of the grate.

Cut the diffusion paper to size, and sandwich it between the base and the grate. Attach the grate with the screws.

PRINTING NOTES

The mounts were printed on a Bambu, utilizing the AMS to use multiple filaments in the same print. If your printer can’t auto-swap filament, you can switch manually part way through the print.

The grate was printed using Silk Silver PLA with Protopasta Steel Filled PLA on the top four layers.

The clip was printed with Hatchbox Black PLA. The body was printed with the same, but Devon also used Overture clear PETG for the support interface to simplify removing the supports.

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Let your creepy light shine

This 3D-printed Dragon Priest mask is illuminated with programmable LEDs. Photo by Monica Jones

Before Christmas, Devon dove back into an old hobby — electronics — when he strung year-round programmable LEDs across the front of our house. Now he must illuminate all the things, and nothing is safe.

This Skyrim-inspired 3D-printed Dragon Priest mask, designed by Jtm, has been guarding our office, waiting for the sweet, sweet touch of LEDs. Today, this creepy severed head shall wear purple.

Supplies for Electronics

Pixel String Light
WiFi Development Board
Soldering Station (or whatever station you have)

Instructions

The seed pixels (the LEDs) have three wires. The marked one is for voltage, which gets soldered to the 5v hole on the ESP. The next one is for signal. I soldered that to D4. The final wire is for ground, and that one gets soldered to G.

Cut as much wire as you need for your project. We recommend using no more than 30 LEDs on an ESP board.

Next, install WLED on the board. You’ll need to install the drivers first. Then plug in WLED and follow their setup instructions. Your config should look something like this.

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Italian bow-tie cookies are a gift for your face hole

Italian bow-tie cookies sprinkled with powdered sugar are worth the effort. Photo by Monica Jones

I used to help my first-generation Italian-American mother make these bow-tie cookies every Christmas when I was a kid. She made me promise I would continue the tradition after she died, and I’ve been keeping that promise for nine years. Whenever I think about taking a year off, her angry ghost yells at me with her hands until I do the right thing.

My mother’s original recipe, handed down by my grandmother, was lost shortly before mom died, so I searched online until I found this recipe. The cookies taste the same to me. My grandmother’s recipe was rubbish anyway — only a list of ingredients like “a glass of white wine,” with no indication how big the glass should be.

Fortunately, most of the recipes for these Italian cookies — and their Polish counterparts — are interchangeable.

Notes

• I use a fluted pastry wheel to give the cookies a nice decorative edge. I also use the pastry wheel to create the bow-tie shape by cutting small slits in the strips of dough and gently flipping one edge of the dough through the slit. If you don’t want to buy a new kitchen gadget, you can use a small knife, or save time by pinching the dough in the middle.

• Roll the dough with a rolling pin or a pasta roller. The pasta roller will take more time but will be easier on your arms and back.

• These cookies are best if the dough is rolled paper thin before cutting. Roll out a small piece so you can test how thin you can go before they start falling apart in the shaping process. Add more flour to your surface if they stick. If you make them too thick, my grandmother will crawl out of her grave to slap you upside the head and make you do it over.

• While you’re rolling and cutting pieces of dough, cover the rest with a damp towel to keep it from drying out. If the dough becomes too brittle to shape, spray it with a bit of water. Don’t overdo it. If it’s too sticky and wet, sprinkle it with flour until you can work with it again. It’s fine if the cookies dry out after you’ve shaped them.

• If you need to pause your project, wrap the dough in a soaking wet towel until you can come back to it. You might need to sprinkle it with flour when you return if it’s too sticky. I haven’t tested this beyond a few hours, so I recommend you finish the cookies in a single day.

  
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